
I have to tip my hat to Nashville, they are on message as to the sanctity of the history of country music.
The morning of Day 4 we toured the mother church of country music: the hallowed hall that is the Ryman. I was captured by its story and its simple beauty. In my next post I will let you know how the great lady sounds (we are going to a show Day 5). The Ryman does a great job presenting her story both formally (guided back stage tour and video on steroids) and informally (just letting you wander). Touring an auditorium does not seem like an attraction, but this is a genuine attraction (similar to visiting a famous church) and is highly recommended if you visit Nashville and have even the slightest appreciation for country music. I won’t repeat her story here and be a spoiler, but it is fair to say her story is intertwined with the history of Nashville and country music.
The day before we had loitered in the Hatch Show Print gift shop and based on that we scheduled a tour (yet another unlikely tourist attraction). Like the Ryman, Hatch Show Print has a unique story and its history and influence is deeply intertwined with Nashville and country music. The Hatch poster style is iconic. We had the good luck of being there for its 137th birthday and got to help celebrate that by making the handbill above. We also had the good luck of seeing the poster for the Ryman show we are seeing being made.
By then we were hungry and headed over to East Nashville which is kind of like my hometown’s (Minneapolis) Nordeast – a former worn out neighborhood that has become hipster heaven.
We had lunch at a famous burger joint – the Pharmacy. We had the good luck of the weather properly behaving like spring and ate out on the patio/beer garden. Given it was mid-afternoon there was not the usual wait. The burger and hand cut fries were great – of special note was the burger bun and the European beer selection.
We walked a few blocks to The Groove, a record store, to do a little crate digging. Groove had a nice ambience being located in an old house. They had a nice selection of new and used. Prices were typical of the vinyl resurgence (high but fair).
A half a block away was one of the cooler coffee shops I have ever been to: Barista Parlor. It has a really cool ambiance in a big open space. They don’t have the typical chain selection and I had a coffee cocktail – an espresso tonic. Sounds questionable, but it was delicious.
We headed back to the hotel for a little downtime.

By our good luck the annual “All For The Hall” fundraising concert was scheduled during our visit. We headed over to the Bridgestone Arena (the NHL Predators play there) for the show. I have been to a lot of concerts in my life but I have never been to this kind of event. Keith Urban took the primary hosting/MCing duties which fit him perfect. Vince Gill seemed more than fine deferring.
The basic format was for each artist to play one of their hits and a cover – with the go-to artist to cover being the late Merle Haggard.
It was a good cross-section of artists from old to new and from traditional country to rock/pop country. The transitions between artists was remarkably smooth.
The only odd paring was Peter Frampton – but not so odd given he is now a Nashvillian. He did a nice solo, acoustic version of Buddy Holly’s “Peggy Sue” and a classic full band version of “Do You Feel Like We Do” including a talk box solo. Over all a fun show and great sampler platter.
We reprised Bakersfield for a nightcap and called it a night.
Day 3 was a visit to the Country Music Hall of Fame. Although it has been many years since I have been to the Rock and Roll Hall, the Country Hall kicks its ass. A great building, nicely curated and well-organized. Rock and roll does not really have a hometown, where Country does – so the ambiance of the Country Hall being located in Nashville makes a difference. It was my good luck that the featured show was Dylan, Cash and the Nashville Cats. The story of Dylan’s impact on the Nashville music scene is well documented here.
One thing I should have mentioned in the Day 1 post was the ghost of the late Merle Haggard on Nashville this week. There is more joy than sadness as every performance we have seen has a shout out to the great Hag.
There is lots to call out at the Hall, but my two favorite things was seeing an oversized album cover of Dylan’s Nashville Skyline that had the following note scrawled on it: “To June and John, Love Bob Dylan.” And the other was Gram Parson’s famous Nudie suit.

We paid extra to visit RCA Studio B. Studio B had the distinction of being the favorite Nashville studio for Elvis and it is the source of over 1,000 hit records. The Hall has done a good job of keeping the studio intact, yet making it user-friendly for tourist groups. Just being in a room where there has been so much music history was pretty cool. For example, the Steinway piano that has been a studio fixture since the beginning, is where Elvis would warm up before a session.
Back at the Hall we checked out the Hatch Show Print – a print shop which has specialized creating posters for country music shows. There were many great ones but this was had special resonance:
We headed back to the hotel for a little down time and then headed down to Broadway for some dinner and honky tonking. We had dinner at ACME Feed and Seed. The menu specialized in southern comfort food. I had fried catfish and it was perfect. While we were eating we enjoyed “Grateful Monday” – they have a cover band playing Grateful Dead songs. The Craig Jackson Band did a nice job of being inspired by the Dead without aping them.
Next we headed to Roberts Western World to listen to some real country music. What a great place – a hole in the wall jammed with people listing to a great band playing traditional country classics. John England and The Western Swingers played familiar songs (e.g. Bob Wills “Cherokee Maiden” and Hag’s “Tonight the Bottle Let Me Down”). Almost as much fun as the music, was trying to figure out how the 6 piece band managed to fit on the tiny stage. Thank goodness they don’t have a trombone player or someone would have gotten hurt. After their set we headed on to another joint.
Tootsies Orchid Lounge had a more of a contemporary country feel (AKA rock). It had three floors and a different band on every floor. The place was packed and so we headed up to the top floor and found a little breathing space on the outdoor deck. Pretty cool vibe and ambiance best described as upscale shitty. I left my mark:
It started to drizzle and we were one drink short of regret so we decided to call it a night.
Below is a nice curated Spotify session on Dylan’s impact on Nashville.
My wife and I have adult children (Patrick 26 and Allison 25) and last year we decided to reprise the spring breaks of their teenage years with a twist. Instead of a cruise or an all-inclusive in the sun we decided to visit great American cities. Last year it was Seattle and this year it is Nashville.
Day 1 – Saturday April 9, 2016
We arrived a little before noon and the first thing that struck me at the airport was the advertising – airport advertising is always revealing of the underlying industry of the town (ignore the stuff aimed a tourists). We were in music city as indicated by an ad for BMI (a music royalty/copyright organization) and Gibson (the guitar maker).
We are staying downtown and our hotel room was not ready so we checked our bags and went for a stroll – the intention was to go to a micro brewery, but we took a wrong turn and ended up at the top of Broadway (Nashville’s Beale Street/ Bourbon Street). We were not ready for that, so we headed to the Nashville Visitor center to get our bearings.
My first impression of Nashville is that seems like a nice clean city. It looks like the economy is booming – there is construction going on all over downtown – a bit of an inconvenience, but I love seeing a town growing.
We then headed for the “Gulch” which appears to be an industrial area that is becoming gentrified with restaurant and retail. First stop was Yazoo Brewing. This is your typical brewery tap-room that could be found in pretty much any major city these days. We had a flight of their beers and all were tasty. My favorite brew was from their “Embrace the Funk” series – it was a sour called Indomintis Dolium. It had a nice fruity taste and was just sour enough to give a little bite. It is aged in cognac barrels – but I did not find it having the boozy flavor you can sometimes get with barrel aged beers.
We then headed to Party Fowl for lunch. Party Fowl is a self-described “chicken restaurant.” We all had variation of fried chicken. The fried chicken was perfect: not too greasy and crisp without drying out the meat.
We finished out our “Gultch” adventure at Third Man Records. The house that Jack White built is less a record store, than a shrine to White and his kitschy genius. There are some pretty cool souvenirs, but the music inventory is exclusively the Third Man catalog (not uncommon for a label store). We picked up a few souvenirs and I picked up the 2004 White produced Van Lear Rose by Loretta Lynn and a Margo Price single (for the unreleased B-side).
We then walked back to our hotel for a nap. The Hampton Inn Nashville is a nice enough place: good downtown location, nice lobby, better than average hot breakfast, but the rooms are in need of updating – they are just a bit frayed.
After out nap we Ubered to the Grand Ole Opry. This is pretty much a bucket list experience for a music fan. The whole experience very touristy, but overall it is great. It has a nice authentic down home feel without the hipster irony of a Prairie Home Companion. I was not that familiar with the artists on the bill, but it did not matter – they were all fun. I even got a kick out of the square dancers and the radio ads.
The headliner was Eric Church who was frankly breathtaking. Rather than play with a band, he played solo – just him and his guitar. Scheduled for 30 minute he thumbed his nose to that and played his hits for 6o-minutes. He was a humble yet engaging. Slyly charismatic. If you were a true fan this must have been an amazing experience to see him in this kind of intimate setting. I am merely a casual fan and I was blown away. My wife, who as never heard a note of Eric Church in her life, was sold. You can see why this guy is a star – it’s the songs. In the end that is all that really matters – great songs win – and Church has written some great songs.
We headed back downtown and crowned the night at Whiskey Kitchen. We had some bourbon, yam fries (fantastic) and fried pickles (nothing special) as our appetizers and some nice speciality pizzas for our main course. The ambience was a bit loud for my taste, bad 90s music videos blaring, but overall a pretty cool place.
I woke up this morning before the rest of the family to watch Margo Price’s performance on SNL – she was perfect – she had an elegant look, a polished performance and of course those amazing songs. After Chris Statplton’s great year I am bullish about real country’s comeback.

With a voice somewhere between Emmy Lou and Dolly and with the pen of Loretta Lynn, Margo Price storms out of a Memphis studio in a Nashville state of mind. This is one hell of a debut.
The LP opens with the autobiographical “Hands Of Time” which is an amazing story and assuming it is true, reveals that Margo is COUNTRY to the core. How she rose out of this mess to record this amazing record is a testimony to her genius and resilience.
“About To Find Out” is a sassy dress down of an arrogant asshole. Margo rewrites one of my favorite Dylan lyrics (“Stop all this weeping, swallow your pride/You will not die, it’s not poison”): “Tell me what does your pride taste like honey/Or haven’t you tried it out?”
Looking at the liner notes it does not look like White is involved beyond the label, but “Tennessee Song” is the most Jack White song on the album.
“Since You Put Me Down” is a classic Country tale of betrayal and the self loathing that comes with it: “I killed the angel on my shoulder with a handle of tequila/So I wouldn’t have to spend my nights alone, all alone.”
“Four Years Of Chances” has a bluesy groove and is a kiss off song that has extra bite given the protagonist has found some one better.
“This Town Gets Around” is a nice country swing that calls out the sleazy side of Nashville (or any world where you have to whore yourself to get ahead). Margo manages some gallows humor and some wisdom in the muck: “Maybe I’d be smarter if I played dumb.”
“How The Might Have Fallen” takes 2 Samuel 1:25 for a new ride. It is the only song on the album that Margo did not have a hand in writing. The song has a cool mix of anger and compassion.
“Weekender” is about serving a short sentence in jail. It is a pretty simple observations from someone who should have known better.
“Hurtin’ (On The Bottle)” is a classic Country song about drinking too much. It follows in the grand tradition of “Tonight The Bottle Let Me Down” (RIP Merle). If this song doesn’t make her a star then the Country charts are deaf.
“Worlds Greatest Loser” ends the album as a gentle lullaby and the gentle sentiment: “If I lost you I’d lose it all.”
I don’t know a whole lot about country music, but I know what I like and I like Margo Price. Listen and love it. Congratulations to Third Man Record for sponsoring this tremendous debut – this could be the defining moment for your label. Tomorrow I go to Nashville with the family- this is a pretty amazing prelude.
Although I listened to Hüsker Dü, it never really resonated with me. However Mould’s first post Hüsker Dü album Workbook completely blew my mind. Sugar’s File Under Easy Listening was in constant rotation for about year when it first came out. Mould’s autobiography See a Little Light revealed a fascinating man and made his music even more intriguing (and it was in that book that I first discovered the term catch groove).
I greatly enjoyed his last album Beauty & Rain, but Patch The Sky is in the Workbook/File Under Easy Listening stratosphere. This is one great album. Mould is a punk elder at the height of his powers. The guitar playing on this album is amazing: classic Mould buzz saw droning chords accented with classic rock leads. The sonics of this recording are gorgeous. The beauty of Mould’s “punk rock” is that it always had a tasty bubble gum soul – at his core Mould is a pop musician – which is not an insult in my book, but a badge of honor. Anyone can make harsh noise, but only a great artist can make beautiful noise – Patch The Sky is beautiful noise.
The album opens with “Voices in My Head.” The song intro is a cool chiming backward sounding effect that is interrupted by classic Bob Mould rock: his combo of pop hooks and punk heat. There is a very nice solo guitar break which is reprised at the end of the song. Lyrically this is a song I can really relate to: “voices in my head they multiply and amplify the fear.” Mould concludes it is time to stop listening to them – pretty good and simple advice.
“The End of Thing” leaps out of the speakers like Neil Young & Crazy Horse on amphetamines. Beyond the obvious big guitar on this song, I love the drum foundation.
“Hold On” starts out relatively quiet and then kicks in. The song has an elevating quality – with every chorus you feel higher than the last one.
“You Say You” is a great example of the influence Mould has had on his disciples – this song would not sound out-of-place on a Foo Fighter’s album. I love how Mould juxtapositions angry lyrics with upbeat music.
Mould takes a turn with a whole different sound on”Losing Sleep.” On this song Mould connects with his inner XTC. A nice little distraction in the middle of the album. Mould has always had a great voice to cut through the noise of his guitar, but on a less guitar centric song you get a chance to hear how beautiful his voice truly is.
With “Pray for Rain” the buzz saw drone returns coupled with percolating crashing drums. The noise just pours over you. The side ends with a short unnamed hidden instrumental.
“Lucifer and God” opens side two in epic fashion. This is a big arena style anthem both musically and lyrically.
“Daddy’s Favorite” has some great rock and roll licks. It is a an honest reflection of the loss of one’s parents.
“Hands Are Tied” is a fast-moving punk rush.
“Black Confetti” brings all Mould’s musical strengths together: big hooks, a huge wash of guitar, giant riffs, piercing vocals, cool sound effects – the music rolls over you.
“Losing Time” is more power punk. I can’t say enough about how fun it is to really immerse your ears in Mould’s noise. At first blush it is just buzz – but there is so much more if you really dig in.
“Monument” ends the album on a contemplative note. Mould slows it down – not a ballad per se, but slow burning rock. It is a bit quieter than the rest of the album and that lets you really sink your teeth into the beauty of Mould and the band’s playing.
Mould has always been a brainy punk and there has always been a depth and complexity to his noise. Mould is not introducing anything new here – just a perfect manifestation of his craft. There is not a clunker on the album. Often when I fall in love with an album at first sight, on further inspection it does not hold up. But Patch The Sky is a so richly layered that it just keeps getting better with each listen.

Addendum: This review as been sitting in draft status a few weeks. When I was finishing it up I remembered that I had not ever bothered to get tickets to Bob Mould’s two night stand at First Avenue (Minneapolis). It was now too late as I had other plans. Googling about Mould I learned there was a free invitation only afternoon mini-concert at the Turf Club. I signed up to be considered on The Current website and forgot about it. The day before the show I got an email mail that I was invited.

April 21, 2016 was the day of the show – it was also the day that Prince died. A pretty big deal for pop music fans world-wide – and a bigger deal here in Minneapolis Minnesota. I am not sure if there is another rock star that is so affiliated with “a place” as Prince is with Minneapolis. And of course Bob Mould is a pretty big deal in Minneapolis too – in fact his First Avenue star is right below Prince’s star on the First Avenue wall of fame. So a pretty weird vibe for a show.
Bob Mould bounded on stage, subtly acknowledged the sadness of the day and then unleashed a solo maelstrom. I was only about 10 feet away from Mould and I focused on his hands the whole time trying to understand how he makes his music. His right hand wildly flails – yet a coherent voice comes out of that chaos. Mould is working so hard that he glasses fog up. It was fascinating to watch. In what seemed liked seconds it was over (actually it was 45 minutes). I felt honored to see one of my rock heroes so up close and personal. Set list here.
Check out this Ryan Adams interview of Bob Mould (really a conversation).

I don’t know how this album entered my consciousness, but I assume I read some review that raved about it. I had some familiarity with Vijay Iyer via some of his solo work and as a sideman with sax man Rudresh Mahanthappa. I always liked his complex, yet accessible style. Wadada Leo Smith is but a name to me. About all I knew was he plays trumpet and is associated with the jazz avant-garde.
A Cosmic Rhythm With Each Stroke is quintessentially ECM. ECM is the most reliable jazz label for my ears. Always tasteful, generally quite and complex without making your head explode. Impeccably recorded and starkly beautifully packaging. That pretty much defines this album.
The album opens with “Passage,” a Vijay Iyer song. Wadada Leo Smith’s trumpet whispers over Iyer contemplative piano. I would not have thought a duo of quite piano and trumpet could deliver such a powerful punch. As mellow as Smith sounds there is an edge – a gentle hint of atonal avant-garde jazz. The song is a pure duo.
Next is the titular suite in seven songs/parts/movements ranging between five and nine minutes. The suite was commissioned by The Metropolitan Museum of Art for its exhibition of the art of Nasreen Mohamedi (the album’s cover is a sample of her art). It was composed by Iyer and Smith.
“All becomes alive” opens the suite as a conversation between Smith and Iyer as each takes solos. Smith start the conversation over an electronic drone from Iyer. Iyer responds with a gorgeous contemplative piano solo. Smith answers back with an equally gorgeous solo. Soon piano and horn are in a gently duet. Two voices respectfully weaving together. Iyer (I assume) adds some percussive effects.
“The empty mind receives” opens with some gentle keyboarding answered by Smith’s muted trumpet. The song gets ever more adventurous. So like the song title, the song starts empty and then gains wisdom.
“Labyrinths” has a gently chaotic feel as Iyer and Smith run around trying to find each other. The song gets less hectic, but retains its complexity.
“A divine courage” starts out with a nearly silent electronic hum. Smith enters at about the minute mark with his rich tone and slowly solos for a couple of minutes with some occasional tasteful punctuation from Iyer. As the song progresses Iyer slowly asserts his voice without overshadowing Smith.
“Uncut emeralds” begins with Iyer twinkling the right hand ivories. Smith pipes in with almost a sax sounding trumpet – he makes exquisite use of the mute.
“A cold fire” starts with Smith sounding like twisted balloons. Iyer plays a busy and scattered piano. The song has a wonderfully chaotic feel.
The suite ends with “Notes on water” which is almost a hymn.
The final cut on the album was composed by Smith and is called “Marian Anderson” and is the most conventional jazz cut on the album. Smith plays in a gorgeous full tone and Iyer dances around the keyboard in an almost Keith Jarrett solo manner.
This is the proverbial match made in heaven. Iyer and Smith mix so well together – the ultimate cocktail as it reveals unique flavors with each sip. The sympathy between these two artist is profound. It is quiet yet aggressive at the same time – it is the sound of great resolve. This a quite piece of music best listened to in a quite room so you can pick up the subtleties. The music travels from a whisper to a scream with the whisper being the best part. This is not music for everyone. Some will find it harsh and “out there.” But if you are willing to open your ears and mind you will hear a beautiful conversation by two enlightened friends. Listen carefully to the undercurrent of electronics that Iyer has going – get below the piano (but don’t miss out on the piano either). Fully absorb the many amazing sounds of Smith’s horn.
Sorry no Spotify – ECM doesn’t do Spotify. Buy the CD – streaming at low qualiyt would really take the shine off this brilliant recording anyway.

This is one of the most important LPs in my collection. Not because it is valuable (it is worth approximately twenty bucks), but because of all the founding fathers of rock and roll, Chuck Berry is my favorite. The only cool thing I can do on a guitar is the opening riff of “Johnny B. Goode.”
This double LP came out in 1982. It was a high quality compilation of Chuck’s greatest hits on Chess records from 1955 to 1965 – his best work.
I didn’t get into rock and roll music until I went to college in 1977. By the time I came across the compilation in 1982, I was a serious student of popular music and well into my obsession of collecting LPs. I was in the right mental state to truly appreciate the brilliance of Chuck Berry when I bought this compilation. I was obviously aware of Berry, but with this album I really dug into his music. I must have played this album a 100 times in the first year I got it. What was the appeal?
First of all it was so fundamental – so foundational. These riffs had been copied by the Beatles, the Stones, Dylan, the Beach Boys and on and on – they were already embedded in my consciousness. The opening riff of “Johnny B. Goode” is rock and roll.
Second where the lyrics – Chuck’s lyrics are deceptively simple – but they are a novel in two and half minutes. Again they have influenced everyone: Beatles, the Stones, Dylan, the Beach Boys, Springsteen and on and on.
Third is the visuals – if you have ever seen a clip of Chuck performing – it is spellbinding – he is handsome, charismatic and the duck walk may rival the James Brown split as the greatest stage move in pop music (fortunately I was able to see both these moves live before Brown and Berry where over the hill).
And finally it the sheer joy of the sound – it is pure fun. When Chuck went to Chess, he found the perfect place for his genius to blossom – the house session players were some pretty amazing artist in their own right, for example: Willie Dixon and Johnny Johnson.
Introducing yourself to classic artists like Check Berry can be daunting. There tend to be dozens of greatest hits package – some of which are not very reliable. This one is reliable and frankly perfect. Good enough to be ranked number 21 on Rolling Stone magazine’s list of the 500 greatest albums of all time.

One of the first jazz LPs to blow my mind was McCoy Tyner’s “Fly With The Wind.” About the time I was getting into the album I had the privilege of seeing Tyner live with the Milestone Jazzstars. A few years later I got to see him solo at the old Dakota in Bandana Square. Needless to say each time – each different flavors – he was epic!
Tyner was on a roll in the 70s on the Milestone label. I don’t have every album, but everyone I have listened to is great.
Like all the other albums I have consumed by Tyner on Milestone, Together fits the formula: great songs, great arrangements, the best side men and energetic/hyperkinetic playing by McCoy Tyner.
Check out this line up:
This is absolutely delightful music. It is aggressive and playful. It is virtuosity without pretension. It is like listening in on the conversation of brilliant and witty geniuses.
If you are crate digging and you see a McCoy Tyner album on the Milestone label in decent condition for less than a fin pick it up.











